The Pearl Sea

We moved from Guangzhou, and have been in ZhuHai for a few days. It's a (slightly) smaller city next to Macau on the coast. It's a fairly modern development, as is much of the recent growth of Guangdong province (the richest in China, both absolutly and per capita), and many of the tourist atractions have a slightly artificial feel about them.


On our first night we took a boat cruise along the river and out to sea. It had a buffet dinner followed by dancers on the open-top, apparently with a Portugese theme, as we sailed past Macau and back (formerly a Portugese colony - a bit like Hong Kong but with more casinos)

The 'Portugese' guy was very funny! Later on the people on the cruise got involved as well, and at the end there was a magician - all slightly strange but good fun!

Macao off to one side. It returned to Chinese control in 1999, two years after Hong Kong.

The next day we went to the Yuan Ming Xin Yuan, a partial rebuilding of the Old Summer Palace in Beijing, burnt by invading forces in the Opium Wars of the nineteenth century (still a sore point to the Chinese apparently, in the catalogue of foreign abuses of Chinese soverignty drilled into all of them from a young age). It was very pretty and quite large - easily a day's work to enjoy fully. There were more dancing performances, including my highlight which was a re-enactment of the emperor choosing his newest wife - with the emperor chosen from the audience! Also a Chinese orchestra, after which it started to rain and we vacated (it was getting late, anyway).

There were also lots of shops selling typical touristy odditys, and lots of places with costumes selling photos that I got talked into buying one of:

Me as the yellow emperor, much to the amusment of all nearby people - a foreign emperor!

Another area had a great exhibition of most of the various imperial lines in China - in fact, many of the emperors were 'foreigners', Ghengis Khan's descendents who founded the Yuan dynasty and the most recent Qing dynasty to name a few. Chinese culture became very effective at sinocising various foreign powers throughout the ages, like the Greeks in the West. China had one emperess in about 700AD, and after realising their mistake they never let it happen again, although in various periods the cheif wife of the emperor was in defacto control after his death, most recently in the late nineteenth century, the infamous emperess dowager CiXi.

Downstairs was a darkened chamber with pictures of emperors in various naughty poses with wives and misteresses (and often a combination thereof) - photos had recently been allowed but none are online or for the faint-hearted!


Today we went a little further afield to the 'Pearl Spring Resort', an amusment arcade a little out of the city. After paying RMB 110 for a ticket to get in I felt slightly like I'd fallen into a tourist trap, but the rides inside were all free so it wasn't so bad (Yuan Ming Xin Yuan was RMB 120 a ticket, again the performances and things inside were mostly free, and apparently we could trade the tickets inside for a free goodie too, but we never found the place - no big loss though, it was the usual tourist bangles and jade buddhas).



Spring Pearl Resort

Continuing the Guangzhou themes, there were dancers and paddling boats, and lots of rides (I went on what was possibly the first roller-coaster I've ever been on, quite fun!)

dancers...

and the aftermath of the rollercoaster! Thankfully breakfast was some time ago.

And another ride, this time a vertical one with a very good view from the top.

The surrounding area was very pretty, much less clustered than the city. There were lots of fishing boats on the river/sea around the resort and the sun was slowly going down. The beaches were rocky but nice to look at (the resort itself had fake sand beaches with swimming areas, but sadly I'd left my trunks at home and didn't want to buy the over-priced ones they were selling

The resort's hotel (NOT where I was staying!)

Tomorrow we're leaving the Pearl River Delta and going a little further inland to ZhaoQing city.

Boating on the Huangpu

This week has passed fairly quickly. Got the results for our experiment through on Thursday and I've been playing around with them making some graphs and the like. As I mentioned before, the results were not quite as useful as I might have liked due to the alteration in the process now used at the factory, but it's been fun either way and we'll see what I come up with. We measured lots of weights at different stages in the process which we can use to calculate thicknesses and things, and also power output of the cells which we can compare to thickness, weight etc.


Today (Saturday), I decided to go on the Huangpu River cruise. There are a few versions, but they boil down to a 1-hour tour that basically covers the Bund for about 60 RMB, or a bumper 3-hour cruise 60km downstream to the mouth of the Yangtze and the Pacific Ocean for 150 RMB. Being a purist and on the advice of my guidebook, I went for the longer one. It was good, and my first view of the ocean not from an aeroplane, but in retrospect I think 3 hours is a bit gruelling - advice for others, go for the shorter cruise! Although it is certainly worth doing that one.


Jack plans revolution with his Bolshy buddies near the pier


Leaving Pudong behind...


The gate to the East

Afterwards wondered Xin Tan Di and Huai Hai Lu with a few others (the nice bits of town!) and restaurented and malled. Developed a game for malls: essentially you need to travel the men's floor without retracing your steps, and return to your initial position (if lift, or the down escalator otherwise). The catch is, if there's a plastic clothes model with it's shirt tucked in, that walkway section is forbidden!


blocked!


China's military will soon be able to take over the World, but like the Americans they appear not quite to have grasped 'soft' power yet. Their attempts at cultural supremecy have so far only won over Alan from 'Two and a half men' and my younger, and far wiser brother.

Tomorrow I'm off dragon boating, and then next week (my last!) is quite action packed, with a visit to a couple of other research institutes in Shanghai and possibly poping over to the other campus in Shanghai Uni to see what goes on over there, and hopefully I'm going to be allowed to sit in on some undergrad lectures (which have just started) and see what they're like over here.

Hanzhou, Experiment, Art

Last saturday I went to Hanzhou. As i mentioned before, Hanzhou and Suzhou are supposed to be the most beautiful places in China. Personally, I'd cut Suzhou out of the list: Hanzhou was much nicer! It's a medium sized city built around a huge and lovely lake, surrounded by hills with tea plantations and lots of temples and pagodas. The gardens of Suzhou are indeed beautiful, but all of Hanzhou is.

We arrived quite late (circa 9.30pm), but were able to relativly quickly find a restaurent that opened late (cf. McD's in Suzhou!), before retreating to a moderatly priced hotel. However, their air conditioning was broken, so they shipped us upmarket for the first night for free! What a score. Next morning we had a breakfast buffet, all you want of a wide array of eastern and western foods.

I knew that my friend and regular blog correspondant Lisa Gao had planned to come to China at some point this holiday, but I hadn't expected to find her in my fruit bowl at the hotel

Breakfast isn't big in China so its always slightly eclectic, but not here. Lots of chinese dumplings, noodles etc., but also the full array of bacon, potatoes, cereal, cold milk, fruit, fruit juice, french pastires etc - I stuffed myself full for the day.

On sunday we visited the Lingyin Temple, a big budhist temple. It's just over the hill from the lake and is in the middle of the tea growing areas. Next to it is a famous hill called "Hill flown in from afar" after a travelling Indian buddhist mistook it for a hill from home which it resembled, which we climbed. The temple itself is still home to several buddhist monks, who climb another even taller hill each day on their hands and knees to visit another temple (which you can just see at the top of the tea field photo below, with a cable car for lazy tourists), and clean, worship and practice martial arts (allegedly). They seem to have struck on a winning revenue stream though - there are thusands of tourists daily, who come to burn incense and worship their family gods (apparently buddhism adopted gods when it reached china).

buddhas carved into 'hill flown from afar'

despite numerous signs informing that for true buddhists piety is more important than incense, the vendors outside still made a healthy taking. The chinese aren't the most religious of people, but they have a very special way of sinocising foreign ones

Buddhism, much like Islam, is a religion of peace

After the temple, we went to try and find the tea museum, but it was unfortunatly out of season. Instead, we got taken to one of the tea villages to a little tea huse to have tea explained to us by a local woman. We wondered the village for a bit and bought some overpriced locally cut stuff, then returned to our original hotel (unfortunatly repaired!) for a shower.

proof I was there

A tea field. I want one of these!

In the evening we went to a nice restaurent on the lake (my first glimpse of it so far!) that was packed, apparently Zhou En Lai ate there back in the day so it's always popular with domestic tourists. We wondered a bit afterwards, along one of the long causeways that cross the lake, before returning to the hotel.

We woke early the next morning for another marginally less impressive breakfast, less bacon and more rice but still palatable. No black tea either unfortunatly. We went back to the lake and hired bicycles from one of the many hire places around the lake and cycled round it for a few hours, which was really good fun and very pretty.

part of Hanzhu's beautiful West Lake

It was almost time to go after this, we had lunch at a nice Guangdong themed restaurent (the bit of China nearest Hong Kong, known for eating anything!) and headed back to Shanghai in the glorius monday sunshine.

All was good until I got back home, and discovered to my horror (and for the second time) that I'd lost my debit card. Further, my laptop seemed well and truly broken and I was a bit gutted. Luckily, some frantic calls later revealed that it had been left in the first hotel, they were very good and sent it off almost straight away. Laptop was less positive.

On tuesday Professor Ma arrived back, and the students and I and he discussed various plans for experiments. I got the go-ahead for mine, and my and another student decided to travel over to Pudong on wednesday evening. It was Yaoyao's birthday dinner in shanghai that night in Shanghai, she took several of us to an 'italian' restaurent. It's no wonder that Chinese people think they don't like western food - the imitation is pale (much like chinese takeaway in the UK i'm sure!). The pizzas we had were greasy, covered in horrible rubbery cheese, not a tomato i sight, the tuna (I'm a big fan of napolitana in the UK...) could have come from a can, not enough vinegar, bread too thick, no chilli oil, no pepper mill, etc... The potato salad side order was very good, however!

In the day on Wednesday we had some american visitors to the lab who I chatted to for a bit, they were the investors from the company but seemed to be more on the business than the science side. When we arrived at the company that afternoon I saw them again and told them my plans! It was late so I and the student (his english name is Bob!) headed to the dormitary nearby to start the next morning.

Our village, complete with a few words from the big man himself (5 ft 0 Deng. Party man Bob is a very big fan)

The village that the dorm is in is right on the outskirts of Shanghai where it merges with the countryside (and the coast!), and I've got some good photos of it. When I left it before a few weeks back, some workers had been clearing weeds from a large area of ground, which has now just about been turned into a nice paved area with trees and benches. Development is rapid.

then

and now

Shanghai's eastern edge

By Thursday morning, I was very keen to get by experiment under way. I'd spent some time fighting through paperwork, and finally got to the factory floor by about 10am, to find that the crucial stage of the process for my experiment is no longer used! We had to adjust it somewhat, and the results were less useful that I'd hoped. However, carrying it out was good fun and the company are planning to do my original experiment themselves at some point now which is great.

We finished early on Friday afternoon, and Bob and I returned via SHanghai centre. We went to a nice little market, and did some souvenir shopping. I have purchased a Chinese chess set which I now need to learn to play, and several other amusing nicnaks. I also aquired the newest harry potter for 20 RMB (1 pound 30) and a compilation of shakespeare plays in english and chinese.

Certified 'World VIP' Ma Sun carves me a name stamp

On Friday night I went out with Valencia and Kenny and several others, first to an interesting club in south Shanghai called 'Absolute House', before moving on to Attica. As usual Valencia had obtained us free entry to both places and drinks so the night was very cheap. After we left attica we wondered shanghai and ate funny shellfish as the sun came up!

On Saturday I went with Toshiba to Century Park - a very large park in central pudong not far from the Jin Mao tower. It was very nice, with a big lake in the middle that we were able to hire a boat and sail around on for a bit! After that we went to see the latest Harry Potter in the cinema (I'm not addicted!) and had dinner at an italian place much nicer than the one I went to on tuesday! Still not enough tomato tho and very overpriced this time: someone needs to bring Pizza Express or ASK here.

captain Jack

Shiji Park

On sunday, Valencia wanted to go to the Shanghai art museum. Very tired from the busy week I skipped Dragonboating to sleep, and on a whim joined her in the afternoon to go and see the special exhibit: lots of Gaudi's work from early 20th century Spain. We explored people's square afterwards, and got the usual approaches from 'tea shop' people trying to get money out of us - she was very surprised, and said it was a totally different experience from when she was alone! She thinks they might not know how to deal with a western woman, but I put it more down to her fluent Chinese - a good few people were taken by surprise when she jabbered back at them!

Gaudi was a big fan of 'hyperbolic perabaloids'. Obviously.

upstairs they had quite an strange mix of his furniture

he had a change of heart on his death bed - form AND function

Anyway, she had had to visit a nearby restaurent at some point as part of her job, called Saigon Blue, so we decided to have dinner there (unsurprisingly Vietnamese). It was a lovely little restaurent but a little bit out of the way, a few streets south of Nanjing Road and not quite in the french concession, and also hidden by a large strange hotel-like building (but not a hotel, apparently) called the 'Overseas Chinese Development Center'. You had to actaully leave the restaurent and enter the building to go to the loo, which might have been cold in the winter and felt a little strange! They want to change the place into a bar with V's company's help, but she wasn't massivly enthused. The food was very good though: we had lots of fresh veg in salads and spring rolls, which made me realise how much I've missed them - almost all vegetables here are stir fried or cooked in sauce (side note: I also spotted a subway tucked away near people's square which I will be visiting SOON!).

We wondered a little bit afterward before heading our seperate ways - she made me laugh at one point by suggesting we go for a foot massage - before I realised she was serious! After all the dodgy 'massaji' calls that one hears outside clubs in the early morning I wouldn't even have thought about it, but she told me about the wonderful massage she'd had the week before. It's a very different experience here for men and women! She has promised to take me with her next time she goes to translate for me and guarantee no unexpected surprises!

An Underground European Club-Bar

This Saturday I toured the Shanghai Development Office in People's Square. Now as dull as that might sound, it's actually a Museum and they get lots of recommendations because on one of the floors, they have a cardboard replica of most of the city, with every building and tree painstakingly recreated. It just goes to show how far out I've been living that neither of my residences so far were on it, which was a disappointment!

Cardboard cutout vs. the real deal!

In fact, the whole place was pretty dull, I wouldn't suggest this to any would-be tourists.

Anway, it rained all afternoon so we sheltered in the tea room and then went to a restaurant for dinner. I had arranged to go clubbing as a smart club with Kenny, but all of us were in shorts and sandals and decided it was just too much effort to all go and get changed. Luckily, one of the germans with us knew a club called Pirates! that apparently wouldn't mind sandals, so we re-arranged plans and went there instead.

Well, Pirates! had absolutly no-one inside, so we went to the bar just down the road from it, Logo. The entrance was a dark door but inside was great, lots of old sofas and a small bar area at the back. 20 RMB entrance and drinks at 30 RMB, it was very relaxed and not trying to be anything like so many of the clubs here. It had a very European feel to it, the only problem was thatit was slightly smokey (it even had European toilets, although they were unisex and weren't in that great a condition)

Later on, a local band came in and played, they were really good! One of our friends Valencia (american, but has a thing for long-haired asian men) fell in love with the lead singer and we spent a lot of the evening trying to get her an autograph.

Floopy haired local bad-boy (love interest??!)

When we got bored here, we heard rumours about another after hours bar in the vicinity and spent about two hours trying to find it and also find something to eat nearby (we wanted dumplings but all wecould find was hotpot, which wasn't going to do in our condition). We didn't find it but did see some funny early morning scenes (lots of fights between locals, mostly).